How-To

  • How to Do Your First Hive Inspection: A Step-by-Step Guide for Beginners

    ByCorey Sharrow

    Disclosure: First Hive Gear may earn a commission if you buy through links on this page, at no extra cost to you.

    Most beginners worry about stings before their first inspection. The more common problems are going in without a plan, staying too long, and putting frames back in the wrong order.

    This guide takes you from the day before to closing the lid. It’s built from university extension guidance (University of Arizona, Mississippi State, Oklahoma State, and UF/IFAS) plus two short videos from the University of Guelph Honey Bee Research Centre. It isn’t a substitute for a mentor: if someone from your local club offers to stand beside you for your first look, say yes.

    The short answer

    • Go in with one goal. University of Arizona Extension says to have a purpose in mind every time you open the hive. For a first inspection, that’s usually: is the queen laying, and do the bees have food and room?
    • Pick a warm, calm, dry day. Arizona says to inspect only above 55°F, and not on very windy days, in heavy rain, or at night.
    • Light your smoker first. Oklahoma State Extension says it can be started 5 to 10 minutes before an inspection.
    • Look for eggs, not the queen. Arizona says you don’t need to find her if you can see signs she’s laying.
    • Put frames back in the same order, facing the same way (Mississippi State Extension).

    Watch it first

    Watch these two videos once before your inspection, then use the written steps below as your checklist in the bee yard.

    Video: Opening Hives by University of Guelph Honey Bee Research Centre

    Video credit: “Opening Hives,” University of Guelph Honey Bee Research Centre, embedded from YouTube. First Hive Gear isn’t affiliated with the channel.

    Video: Colony Inspection by University of Guelph Honey Bee Research Centre

    Video credit: “Colony Inspection,” University of Guelph Honey Bee Research Centre, embedded from YouTube. First Hive Gear isn’t affiliated with the channel.

    In the first video, apiary manager Paul Kelly shows how to open a hive and handle frames without harming the queen. In the second, he works through a colony frame by frame. Both were filmed in Ontario, Canada, so your timing and equipment may differ.

    When to do your first inspection

    After installing a package: Mississippi State Extension says the queen should release herself within 2 to 4 days, and to check whether she has left her cage within 3 to 4 days. If she’s still inside, you can leave her a couple more days before releasing her yourself. On later visits, look for eggs and larvae.

    After installing a nuc: Mississippi State refills a new colony’s feeder every 4 to 5 days and advises leaving the bees alone in between.

    Sources differ on timing. Arizona Extension’s list says to check 14 days after installing a package (while making sure the bees don’t run out of feed) and 7 days after introducing a new queen. Follow your supplier’s instructions first, then your mentor’s advice.

    Pick the right hour. Mississippi State says warm, sunny days with steady foraging traffic are best, because many older bees, which are more likely to sting, are out foraging. Arizona lists thunderstorms, cold rainy days, and working too early or too late in the day as things that make bees irritable.

    What to wear and bring

    Arizona Extension says full protective gear gives you the best chance of avoiding stings: gloves, a jacket or suit, and a veil, in a light color, with no scented lotions. At the very minimum, always wear your veil. Mississippi State says new beekeepers should wear gloves until they feel comfortable. To choose gear, see ventilated bee suits and jackets and bee jacket vs full suit.

    Bring, adapted from Arizona’s bee-yard list:

    • Smoker, dry fuel, and a lighter (see how to light a bee smoker)
    • A hive tool (Arizona suggests two)
    • A frame holder, if you have one
    • A notebook or phone for notes and photos
    • Drinking water, plus water to rinse sticky hands
    • A nonflammable container for the hot smoker

    The full shopping list is in our beginner beekeeping equipment checklist.

    No hive tool in your kit? Blythewood Bee Company lists a Standard Hive Tool with Scraper and a Stainless Steel J-Hook Hive Tool at $9.95 each, and a stainless Beehive Frame Perch/Holder that hooks over the box and holds up to three frames for $12.95 (as listed Oct 5, 2026, ET; features per the seller).

    Pro tip: Do a dry run before the bees arrive. Arizona Extension recommends practicing lighting your smoker a few times before taking it into the apiary.

    Step by step: your first inspection

    1. Set your goal

    For a new package or nuc: Is the queen out of her cage? Are there eggs or young larvae? Are the bees building comb? Is there syrup in the feeder?

    2. Light the smoker

    Have it making cool, white smoke before you walk over. Our smoker guide covers lighting it and keeping it lit.

    3. Approach from the side or back

    Arizona Extension says standing in front of the hive blocks the bees’ flight path. Watch the entrance for a moment first.

    4. Smoke the entrance, then wait

    Puff some smoke into the entrance and wait a few seconds for the bees to react (Arizona). A couple of puffs is enough; Arizona warns that over-smoking irritates bees.

    5. Open the lid and inner cover

    Pry off the lid and puff smoke through the inner cover, then remove the inner cover and puff a little smoke between the frames where you’ll start. Arizona suggests propping both covers against the hive near the entrance so clinging bees can walk back in.

    6. Remove the first frame

    Hook your frame holder on the side of the box. Loosen the frame nearest you with your hive tool and lift it straight up, slowly, so you don’t roll bees against the walls. In the Guelph video, Kelly holds on to frames as he pries them so they don’t snap free and jolt the hive.

    Arizona says to scan each frame in a zig-zag on one side, flip it, and repeat. After two or three frames are out, slide frames into the gap instead of lifting each one out. Outer frames usually hold honey; the middle frames hold the brood nest, which needs to stay warm, so keep moving.

    7. Read each frame

    • Eggs: tiny white specks at the bottom of cells. Tilting the frame toward the sun helps. Arizona notes the queen is most likely on frames with new eggs, so hold those over the open hive so she can’t fall outside it.
    • Larvae: white, curled grubs in open cells.
    • Capped brood: Arizona says worker brood has flat cappings and drone brood has domed cappings. You want mostly worker brood.
    • Brood pattern: Arizona says the queen usually lays in a concentric pattern. UF/IFAS says a spotty pattern suggests a failing or missing queen or a health problem.
    • Food: UF/IFAS describes brood in the center, surrounded by pollen, then capped honey.
    • Space: Oklahoma State says to add a second box once bees have drawn comb on eight of ten frames.
    • Queen cells and problems: Arizona says to watch for queen cells and note whether they hold eggs or larvae or are sealed. If anything looks wrong, take a photo and ask your mentor or state apiary inspector.

    8. Don’t hunt for the queen

    Eggs and young larvae tell you she’s been there recently. If you do spot her, keep that frame low over the hive. The “Opening Hives” video shows a careful way to set her frame aside while you finish.

    9. Put it back together

    Mississippi State says to keep frames in their original order, since the brood nest belongs in the center, and not to rotate them: a bulge on one comb often fits a dip in its neighbor, and flipping a frame can crush bees and brood. Push frames together, center them, and lower the covers slowly.

    10. Write it down

    Arizona says notes should include the date, weather, colony strength, work done, pests or problems, and mite treatments. Number each hive.

    Safety notes

    • Defensive bees: If smoke isn’t calming them, Arizona says to finish quickly and close the hive. Don’t swat. UC’s California Master Beekeeper Program says that if you’re getting multiple stings, close up and move quickly and safely away, for example into a vehicle.
    • Allergies: The UC program says most stings cause only local pain and swelling, but some people have life-threatening reactions. Trouble breathing, swelling of the lips, tongue, or throat, or dizziness means call 911. If you’ve never been stung or relatives have had severe reactions, it suggests asking your doctor about allergy testing before you start.
    • Stingers: Remove them quickly by scraping or pulling, and puff smoke over the spot to mask the alarm scent (UC). Arizona says to wash stung clothing before your next visit.
    • Fire: Set the smoker in a nonflammable container, not dry grass. Oklahoma State says to make sure it’s out and cool before putting it away, and never to leave a lit smoker in a vehicle.

    Common mistakes

    1. No plan. You’ll stay too long.
    2. Too much smoke.
    3. Standing in the flight path.
    4. Lingering over brood frames. Keep the nest warm.
    5. Reordering or flipping frames.
    6. Inspecting too often. Mississippi State advises leaving a new colony to work between feeder refills.

    FAQ

    How long should a first inspection take?

    No source gives a fixed time, but Arizona stresses keeping it short, and says a properly filled smoker lasts about 30 minutes. A single-box hive shouldn’t need nearly that long.

    How often should I inspect?

    It depends on season and goals. Arizona lists triggers such as 7 days after introducing a new queen, plus regular spring checks for food, laying, and swarm cells. UF/IFAS says winter checks should be brief, on days above 50°F, and only if absolutely necessary.

    What if I can’t find eggs?

    They’re hard to see, so look for young larvae and capped brood too. If you find no eggs or brood when the queen should be laying, contact your supplier or mentor promptly.

    What about fall?

    Fall visits focus on mites, food stores, and winter prep. See fall feeding and winter prep for first-year beekeepers.

    Want a structured course?

    Reader deal: The Beekeeping Made Simple Beekeeping for Beginners video course lists a basics chapter covering buying, installing, and inspecting bees. First Hive Gear readers can use code COREY for 20% off eligible offers; check at checkout which plans it applies to.

    We compare it with free extension courses in best beekeeping courses and books for beginners.

    Sources

    This article is general information, not professional, medical, or legal advice.

  • How to Light a Bee Smoker (and Keep It Lit): A Beginner’s Step-by-Step Guide

    ByCorey Sharrow

    Disclosure: First Hive Gear may earn a commission if you buy through links on this page, at no extra cost to you.

    A smoker that dies halfway through an inspection is a beginner rite of passage. The fix is rarely a better smoker. It’s a better fire: a hot base of glowing fuel at the bottom, tightly packed fuel on top, and a few pumps of the bellows now and then.

    This guide covers what you need, which fuels to use and avoid, how to light a smoker step by step, how to keep it going, and how to put it out safely. It draws on University of Arizona, Oklahoma State, and Mississippi State extension guidance, Dadant’s and Carolina Honeybees’ instructions, and a University of Guelph Honey Bee Research Centre video. If you still need to buy a smoker, start with our best bee smokers for beginners.

    The short answer

    • Build the fire in layers. Light a little starter at the bottom, add fuel gradually while pumping, build a bed of coals, then pack more fuel on top (Dadant; Carolina Honeybees; Arizona Extension).
    • Aim for cool, white smoke. Mississippi State describes the goal as a cool smoke, and Carolina Honeybees says white and cool, not a big flame.
    • Light it 5 to 10 minutes before you open the hive (Oklahoma State Extension).
    • Pump the bellows now and then, even when you don’t need smoke (Carolina Honeybees).
    • Put it out like a campfire. Oklahoma State says to make sure the fire is out and the smoker is cool before you put it away, and never to leave a lit smoker in a vehicle.

    Watch it first

    Video: Smoke Use by University of Guelph Honey Bee Research Centre

    Video credit: “Smoke Use,” University of Guelph Honey Bee Research Centre, embedded from YouTube. First Hive Gear isn’t affiliated with the channel.

    In the video, apiary manager Paul Kelly explains the parts of a smoker, then lights crumpled newspaper inside a metal pail, out of the wind, and transfers it into the smoker while puffing. He adds wood shavings and tops them with a ball of newspaper so the fuel doesn’t blow out when the smoker tips. Two details worth copying: he holds the smoker up while lighting it, so the bellows doesn’t suck ground debris into the air hole, and he says he adds fuel about every 15 minutes.

    What you need

    • A smoker with a heat shield. Mississippi State says shielded smokers cost more but “the extra cost is well worth it” because the shield protects you from burns.
    • Starter material. Dadant suggests newspaper or another non-toxic starter. Carolina Honeybees lists pulp egg carton, cardboard strips, untreated pine shavings, and crumpled newspaper.
    • Fuel. See the next section.
    • A lighter. Carolina Honeybees says most beekeepers use a long-handled lighter or a butane torch.
    • Your hive tool, to push fuel down (Carolina Honeybees).
    • Somewhere safe to set it. Arizona Extension lists a nonflammable container for the hot smoker, and Dadant recommends keeping a fire extinguisher nearby.

    Blythewood Bee Company lists a Budget Stainless Steel Beekeeping Smoker with a wire heat shield and hanging hook ($29.95 for the 4″×7″ Standard, $39.95 for the 4″×9″ Large) and a Pro Copper Bee Smoker with Heat Guard ($40.00). For fuel, it lists 100% knitted cotton smoker circles ($10.95). A spare smoker grate ($3.00) is cheap insurance: Blythewood describes it as the disc that keeps air flowing under the fuel and notes it’s easy to dump out with the ash. Prices and features are as listed on Oct 5, 2026 (ET).

    Pick your fuel

    Fuels the sources name:

    • Oklahoma State: straw, wood shavings, cedar bark, peanut shells, pine needles, burlap, 100% cotton rags, and cotton.
    • Mississippi State: pine straw, burlap, sawdust, or wood pellets “that do not contain an accelerant.”
    • Arizona: also lists dry grass, pine cones, bark mulch, nut shells, rice hulls, untreated burlap, and cotton stuffing.

    What to avoid: Arizona Extension says not to use synthetic materials or petroleum products, even as starters, or anything with pesticide residue, because some materials give off fumes that can kill your bees. Carolina Honeybees says never to use gas, kerosene, or other chemical accelerants. Arizona also notes some fuels burn too hot, so mix them with slower, cooler-burning ones.

    Keep it dry. Carolina Honeybees’ first tip is to always use dry fuel.

    Pro tip: Try a few fuels and keep the one that works for you. Both Arizona Extension and Dadant suggest experimenting, since most experienced beekeepers have a favorite. Keep a supply in a lidded metal can so it stays dry.

    Step by step: how to light a bee smoker

    1. Clean it out. Arizona Extension says to clean the smoker and scrape out anything clogging the nozzle. Check that the grate is in the bottom.
    2. Light a small handful of starter. Light it and drop it into the bottom of the chamber, or light it in a metal pail first, as in the Guelph video.
    3. Pump gently as it catches. Carolina Honeybees says gentle pumps fan the flame. Hold the smoker up off the ground while you work.
    4. Add fuel a little at a time. Dadant says to add fuel gradually to avoid a large flare-up, while steadily pumping. Carolina Honeybees says some flame coming out the top at this stage is normal. Be patient.
    5. Build a coal base. Dadant’s goal is a bed of coals that will last while you’re in the bee yard. Push the fuel down with your hive tool, but Carolina Honeybees warns not to pack it too tight before the fire is established.
    6. Pack fuel on top. Dadant says to tightly pack a lot of fuel on top for cool, long-lasting smoke. Carolina Honeybees fills the chamber about three-quarters full.
    7. Close the lid and pump. Pump until the smoke is white and cool (Carolina Honeybees). Arizona says a properly lit smoker keeps burning after you stop pumping, so set it down for a minute and check that it’s still smoking.

    How to keep it lit

    • Pump every so often. Carolina Honeybees says a few pumps during the inspection, even when you don’t need smoke, feed the fire oxygen.
    • Refuel before it’s empty. Arizona Extension says a properly filled smoker should smoke for about 30 minutes, and Kelly tops his up about every 15 minutes in the video. Carry extra fuel and your lighter.
    • Keep it upright and off the grass. Use the hook on the heat shield, if your smoker has one, or a nonflammable container.
    • Cool down hot smoke. Carolina Honeybees says that if smoke turns dark and hot near the end, a small amount of green material can cool it for a few minutes.

    How much smoke to use

    Smoke doesn’t put bees to sleep. Carolina Honeybees and Oklahoma State both say it masks the alarm pheromone guard bees release, and Oklahoma State adds that it drives bees down into the hive to eat honey, which makes them calmer.

    Arizona Extension’s routine is a few puffs at the entrance, a short wait, then another puff when you lift the lid. It also says a few puffs on a sting site can mask the alarm scent. But it warns against over-smoking, which can irritate bees and flavor your honey. Our first hive inspection guide shows where smoke fits in each step.

    Troubleshooting

    ProblemLikely causeWhat to try
    Goes out mid-inspectionToo little coal base, or no pumpingRebuild the base before packing; pump every so often (Dadant; Carolina Honeybees)
    Hot, dark, thin smokeFuel burning downAdd and pack fresh fuel; a little green material cools it briefly (Carolina Honeybees)
    Fire dies right after packingPacked too tight too earlyLet flames establish first, then pack (Carolina Honeybees)
    Won’t lightDamp fuel, or pellets with no kindlingUse dry starter; Carolina Honeybees says pellets need kindling
    Lid sticks or puffs are weakGummy buildup or a clogged nozzleClean it at least once a season (Carolina Honeybees; Arizona)

    If the bellows cracks, Mississippi State says vinyl bellows tend to last longer than rubber ones. Blythewood lists replacement smoker bellows at $9.95.

    How to put a smoker out safely

    • Empty it onto bare ground. Arizona Extension says to empty the remaining fuel and ashes onto dirt or pavement and douse them with water.
    • Let it cool completely. Arizona and Oklahoma State both say to make sure the smoker is cool before you put it away.
    • Never put a warm smoker in your car, in line with Oklahoma State’s warning.
    • Don’t trust a quiet smoker. Carolina Honeybees says more than one beekeeper has started a fire with a smoker they thought was out.

    Safety notes

    • Burns: Dadant warns the smoker body gets very hot while you build the fire. A heat shield helps, and so do gloves.
    • Fire risk: Keep an extinguisher nearby (Dadant), and check local burn rules and dry-weather warnings before lighting up.
    • Your face: Carolina Honeybees says to keep your hands and face away from flames. Some beekeepers wait until the smoker is lit to put on their veil.
    • Stings: Smoke is not a substitute for protective gear. If you may be allergic to stings, talk to your doctor before you start beekeeping. Trouble breathing or swelling of the face or throat after a sting needs emergency help (UC California Master Beekeeper Program).

    Common mistakes

    1. Packing before the fire is going.
    2. Using damp fuel.
    3. Using accelerants or synthetic material.
    4. Forgetting to pump.
    5. Over-smoking the colony.
    6. Storing a smoker you assume is out.

    FAQ

    How long before an inspection should I light my smoker?

    Oklahoma State Extension says 5 to 10 minutes or so before an inspection.

    What’s the easiest fuel for beginners?

    Carolina Honeybees says dry wood chips, wood shavings, and pine needles are beginner favorites. Cotton is another common choice: Dadant lists unprocessed cotton fiber among the most common smoker fuels.

    How long will a smoker stay lit?

    Arizona Extension says about 30 minutes for a properly filled smoker. Plan to add fuel for longer sessions or several hives.

    Do I need smoke for every inspection?

    Arizona Extension says you should never open a hive without smoke, and Mississippi State calls the smoker your most important protective tool. You just don’t need much.

    Can I use wood pellets?

    Yes, if they contain no accelerant (Mississippi State). Carolina Honeybees says pellets burn longer but are hard to light, so start them with kindling.

    Sources

    This article is general information, not professional, medical, or legal advice.

  • Fall Feeding and Winter Prep for First-Year Beekeepers: A Step-by-Step Guide

    ByCorey Sharrow

    Disclosure: First Hive Gear may earn a commission if you buy through links on this page, at no extra cost to you.

    Cornell’s beekeeping program puts it plainly: “Good fall management is critical to successful overwintering.” Penn State Extension says colonies with large populations and honey stores have the best chance, and UF/IFAS lists lack of food among the leading causes of winter colony death.

    This guide covers the fall jobs in the order they matter. Timing depends heavily on climate, and most dates below come from cold-climate sources, so check with your local club or extension office. If it’s already October where you are, jump to “Running late?”

    The short answer

    • Check for mites first. In upstate New York, Cornell says to measure mite levels in late July or early August and re-check in September.
    • Make sure they have enough food. Cornell says a full-size hive (two deeps or equivalent) needs at least 80 pounds of honey, a nuc at least 50; UF/IFAS says about 90 pounds in the North. Ask what’s normal locally.
    • Feed 2:1 syrup if they’re light, while the bees can still process it. Cornell says not to feed 1:1 in fall, and that once the bees cluster it’s too late for liquid feed.
    • Shrink the entrance and keep mice out (UF/IFAS; Cornell).
    • Ventilate, block the wind, then leave them alone (UF/IFAS).

    Watch it first

    Video: Feeding Bees and Overwintering by University of Guelph Honey Bee Research Centre

    Video credit: “Feeding Bees and Overwintering,” University of Guelph Honey Bee Research Centre, embedded from YouTube. First Hive Gear isn’t affiliated with the channel.

    The Guelph team shows several ways to feed heavy syrup, then how they prepare hives for winter. It’s filmed in Ontario, where they feed in the latter part of September after the goldenrod flow, so adjust for your climate. The large open barrel feeder shown suits big apiaries; beginners should stick to feeders inside the hive (Step 3).

    When to start

    WhereWhat the source says
    Upstate New YorkCornell: fall work starts in August; evaluate stores starting early September; you can’t count on feeding past the end of September (some years later)
    Northern climates generallyUF/IFAS: preparation usually starts in August or September
    Warm Southern areasMississippi State: beekeepers there use screened bottom boards year-round with no special winter changes

    Betterbee adds that in most places it’s better to start any needed feeding by about the midpoint of the fall flow, and that pulling your honey supers is a good time to assess stores.

    Step 1: Check for varroa mites

    Cornell explains why mites come first: bee numbers start falling in late summer while mite numbers keep rising, which can leave a bad mite-to-bee ratio when the bees cluster. In its region, it says treating for the first time in September or October is already too late.

    The Honey Bee Health Coalition’s Tools for Varroa Management (9th edition) describes an alcohol wash: sample about 300 adult bees (roughly ½ cup) from one to three brood frames, avoiding the queen, and count the mites. Its suggested treatment thresholds are 2% (6 mites per 300 bees) when the colony population is peaking or declining, and 1% in the dormant phase. It notes thresholds vary by region and recommends checking with your extension apiculturist.

    If you need to treat, choose a product suited to the season, temperature, and whether honey supers are on, and follow the label exactly, as Mississippi State stresses. Penn State notes that some beekeepers use oxalic acid during winter’s broodless period, when all the mites are on adult bees.

    Blythewood Bee Company lists a Ceracell Varroa Mite Test Bottle at $19.95 (shown as a sale price) that it says works for sugar-shake, alcohol-wash, or CO2 testing. See the mite section of our equipment checklist for other options.

    Step 2: Check how much food they have

    Heft the hive. UF/IFAS describes a lift test: try to tip the hive forward with one hand using the handle on the back of the bottom box. If it’s hard to rock, it probably has enough food. If it’s easy, it probably needs more. Arizona Extension suggests learning by feel how heavy your boxes are, so you can recheck during winter.

    Look at the layout. UF/IFAS says brood should sit in the bottom box, ringed by pollen and then capped honey, with food above and beside the cluster, because the cluster moves up through winter. Remove any queen excluder so the queen isn’t trapped below it.

    Leave the honey. Cornell’s advice is to err on the side of too much: better to find live bees with leftover honey in spring than a hive that starved.

    Weak colonies. Penn State says weak or light colonies can be fed or combined with another small colony. UF/IFAS says colonies under 15,000 bees are unlikely to survive freezing temperatures, though they may make it where winters are mild. Ask a mentor to help you combine.

    Step 3: Feed 2:1 syrup if they’re light

    The ratio. Cornell says to use cane sugar and water at 2:1, and explains that the thicker syrup saves the bees energy because less water must be evaporated. Betterbee specifies 2:1 by weight; UF/IFAS describes it by volume. By weight, 10 pounds of sugar to 5 pounds of water (about 2.4 quarts) makes a 2:1 batch.

    The sugar. Mississippi State says to use refined white table sugar, not raw or brown sugar. Betterbee says granulated cane or beet sugar only, never powdered, brown, or organic sugar.

    The water. Heat the water, take it off the heat, then stir in the sugar. Don’t cook the syrup. Betterbee says to use water at least 140°F but not boiling. Mississippi State warns that boiling or overheating syrup can form a compound (HMF) that can kill bees, and says to throw out syrup that has browned.

    The feeder. Mississippi State recommends in-hive feeders or gravity feeders over the inner cover, not entrance feeders, which can attract robber bees and which the cluster can’t reach on cold nights. Hive-top feeders, frame feeders with ladders, and an inverted pail over the inner cover hole (boxed in) all work.

    Blythewood lists the Ceracell 10 Frame Top Feeder with Wooden Rim (2.25 gallons) and the 8-frame version (1.98 gallons) at $24.50 each, and the Bee Smart 3 Season Ultimate Hive Top Feeder (about 1 gallon, fits 8- and 10-frame) at $22.00. Prices are as listed Oct 5, 2026 (ET).

    When to stop. Stop when the hive reaches your target weight or the bees stop taking syrup. Betterbee says that once nights drop into the 40s, feed only what the bees will take in 24 hours, fresh and warm each morning.

    Pro tip: Fill feeders carefully and wipe up drips. Mississippi State warns that syrup spilled on or around the hive attracts robber bees from other colonies.

    Step 4: Shrink the entrance and keep mice out

    UF/IFAS recommends entrance reducers or wire mouse guards as simple defenses. Cornell says mice crawl into lower entrances once the bees cluster and stop guarding the door. To make your own guard, cut hardware cloth to the entrance width and at least three times its height, fold it in half, and push it into the entrance. Blythewood lists wooden entrance reducers for 8- and 10-frame hives at $2.25 each or $11.25 for five.

    Step 5: Prepare for wind and moisture

    • Shelter from wind, keep airflow. UF/IFAS says hives should be out of the wind but still ventilated, and early-morning sun helps. Cornell says to avoid low spots where damp, cold air pools, and to face entrances away from the prevailing wind.
    • Add an upper entrance. Cornell says condensation dripping from the cover onto the bees is deadly, and that a shim or notch under the inner cover lets moisture escape and gives bees an exit if snow blocks the bottom.
    • Insulation: sources differ. Cornell suggests a moisture-absorbent layer over the inner cover if your cover isn’t insulated; the Guelph team advises against insulation that soaks up moisture, because it can turn soggy and moldy. Ask what works locally.
    • Wrap and strap where it’s cold. UF/IFAS says beekeepers in the far northern states and Canada may wrap hives. Cornell suggests strapping hives down against wind and raccoons.

    Do this work while daytime temperatures are still above 50°F; Cornell says opening colonies in the cold is stressful at best and lethal at worst.

    Step 6: Then leave them alone

    UF/IFAS says to disturb hives as little as possible once winter begins, with brief checks only on days above 50°F if absolutely necessary. Heft the hive now and then. Because bees can’t take cold syrup, Penn State says beekeepers use fondant or hard sugar on top of the frames. Cornell says bees crowding the inner cover hole on a mild day are running out of food and need it right away.

    Running late?

    If it’s mid-October or later where you are:

    1. Check stores on the next day above 50°F (Cornell).
    2. If they’re light and still taking syrup, feed warm 2:1 in 24-hour amounts (Betterbee).
    3. If they’ve clustered, switch to fondant or sugar above the frames (Penn State; Cornell).
    4. Ask your extension office about late-season mite options.
    5. Fit a reducer or mouse guard now.

    Safety notes

    • Hot syrup burns. Let the water cool slightly before mixing, as Betterbee suggests.
    • Robbing makes bees defensive (Arizona Extension), so wear full gear.
    • Mite treatments: follow the label, including its protective-equipment requirements.
    • Heavy boxes: Mississippi State says a full deep box weighs more than 70 pounds. Tip the hive to heft it instead of lifting the whole thing.
    • Stings: If you might be allergic, see a doctor before you keep bees. Trouble breathing or throat swelling after a sting needs emergency help (UC California Master Beekeeper Program).

    FAQ

    Can I feed honey?

    Only your own, from healthy colonies, and carefully. UF/IFAS warns that disease can spread through honey or frames from other colonies, so don’t feed honey of unknown origin.

    Do I need to treat if my mite count was low?

    HBHC says colonies below threshold may not need immediate control, and recommends re-sampling monthly. Cornell is more cautious: “If you have bees, you have mites,” so plan for control even if you can’t count every hive. Talk to your mentor.

    What if my colony dies anyway?

    UF/IFAS says some colonies don’t survive even with good preparation. Close up the hive to keep out robbers and pests, ask a mentor to help work out why, and plan a spring restart with our winter timeline for ordering bees and first-year budget.

    Keep learning this winter

    Reader deal: The Beekeeping Made Simple Beekeeping for Beginners course lists chapters on pest management and overwintering, and says it covers both warm and cold climates. First Hive Gear readers can use code COREY for 20% off eligible offers; check at checkout which plans it applies to.

    See how it compares with free options in our courses and books roundup, and refresh your inspection skills with how to do your first hive inspection.

    Sources

    This article is general information, not professional, medical, or legal advice. Mite treatments are pesticides: always read and follow the label.