Fall Feeding and Winter Prep for First-Year Beekeepers: A Step-by-Step Guide
Disclosure: First Hive Gear may earn a commission if you buy through links on this page, at no extra cost to you.
Cornell’s beekeeping program puts it plainly: “Good fall management is critical to successful overwintering.” Penn State Extension says colonies with large populations and honey stores have the best chance, and UF/IFAS lists lack of food among the leading causes of winter colony death.
This guide covers the fall jobs in the order they matter. Timing depends heavily on climate, and most dates below come from cold-climate sources, so check with your local club or extension office. If it’s already October where you are, jump to “Running late?”
The short answer
- Check for mites first. In upstate New York, Cornell says to measure mite levels in late July or early August and re-check in September.
- Make sure they have enough food. Cornell says a full-size hive (two deeps or equivalent) needs at least 80 pounds of honey, a nuc at least 50; UF/IFAS says about 90 pounds in the North. Ask what’s normal locally.
- Feed 2:1 syrup if they’re light, while the bees can still process it. Cornell says not to feed 1:1 in fall, and that once the bees cluster it’s too late for liquid feed.
- Shrink the entrance and keep mice out (UF/IFAS; Cornell).
- Ventilate, block the wind, then leave them alone (UF/IFAS).
Watch it first
Video credit: “Feeding Bees and Overwintering,” University of Guelph Honey Bee Research Centre, embedded from YouTube. First Hive Gear isn’t affiliated with the channel.
The Guelph team shows several ways to feed heavy syrup, then how they prepare hives for winter. It’s filmed in Ontario, where they feed in the latter part of September after the goldenrod flow, so adjust for your climate. The large open barrel feeder shown suits big apiaries; beginners should stick to feeders inside the hive (Step 3).
When to start
| Where | What the source says |
|---|---|
| Upstate New York | Cornell: fall work starts in August; evaluate stores starting early September; you can’t count on feeding past the end of September (some years later) |
| Northern climates generally | UF/IFAS: preparation usually starts in August or September |
| Warm Southern areas | Mississippi State: beekeepers there use screened bottom boards year-round with no special winter changes |
Betterbee adds that in most places it’s better to start any needed feeding by about the midpoint of the fall flow, and that pulling your honey supers is a good time to assess stores.
Step 1: Check for varroa mites
Cornell explains why mites come first: bee numbers start falling in late summer while mite numbers keep rising, which can leave a bad mite-to-bee ratio when the bees cluster. In its region, it says treating for the first time in September or October is already too late.
The Honey Bee Health Coalition’s Tools for Varroa Management (9th edition) describes an alcohol wash: sample about 300 adult bees (roughly ½ cup) from one to three brood frames, avoiding the queen, and count the mites. Its suggested treatment thresholds are 2% (6 mites per 300 bees) when the colony population is peaking or declining, and 1% in the dormant phase. It notes thresholds vary by region and recommends checking with your extension apiculturist.
If you need to treat, choose a product suited to the season, temperature, and whether honey supers are on, and follow the label exactly, as Mississippi State stresses. Penn State notes that some beekeepers use oxalic acid during winter’s broodless period, when all the mites are on adult bees.
Blythewood Bee Company lists a Ceracell Varroa Mite Test Bottle at $19.95 (shown as a sale price) that it says works for sugar-shake, alcohol-wash, or CO2 testing. See the mite section of our equipment checklist for other options.
Step 2: Check how much food they have
Heft the hive. UF/IFAS describes a lift test: try to tip the hive forward with one hand using the handle on the back of the bottom box. If it’s hard to rock, it probably has enough food. If it’s easy, it probably needs more. Arizona Extension suggests learning by feel how heavy your boxes are, so you can recheck during winter.
Look at the layout. UF/IFAS says brood should sit in the bottom box, ringed by pollen and then capped honey, with food above and beside the cluster, because the cluster moves up through winter. Remove any queen excluder so the queen isn’t trapped below it.
Leave the honey. Cornell’s advice is to err on the side of too much: better to find live bees with leftover honey in spring than a hive that starved.
Weak colonies. Penn State says weak or light colonies can be fed or combined with another small colony. UF/IFAS says colonies under 15,000 bees are unlikely to survive freezing temperatures, though they may make it where winters are mild. Ask a mentor to help you combine.
Step 3: Feed 2:1 syrup if they’re light
The ratio. Cornell says to use cane sugar and water at 2:1, and explains that the thicker syrup saves the bees energy because less water must be evaporated. Betterbee specifies 2:1 by weight; UF/IFAS describes it by volume. By weight, 10 pounds of sugar to 5 pounds of water (about 2.4 quarts) makes a 2:1 batch.
The sugar. Mississippi State says to use refined white table sugar, not raw or brown sugar. Betterbee says granulated cane or beet sugar only, never powdered, brown, or organic sugar.
The water. Heat the water, take it off the heat, then stir in the sugar. Don’t cook the syrup. Betterbee says to use water at least 140°F but not boiling. Mississippi State warns that boiling or overheating syrup can form a compound (HMF) that can kill bees, and says to throw out syrup that has browned.
The feeder. Mississippi State recommends in-hive feeders or gravity feeders over the inner cover, not entrance feeders, which can attract robber bees and which the cluster can’t reach on cold nights. Hive-top feeders, frame feeders with ladders, and an inverted pail over the inner cover hole (boxed in) all work.
Blythewood lists the Ceracell 10 Frame Top Feeder with Wooden Rim (2.25 gallons) and the 8-frame version (1.98 gallons) at $24.50 each, and the Bee Smart 3 Season Ultimate Hive Top Feeder (about 1 gallon, fits 8- and 10-frame) at $22.00. Prices are as listed Oct 5, 2026 (ET).
When to stop. Stop when the hive reaches your target weight or the bees stop taking syrup. Betterbee says that once nights drop into the 40s, feed only what the bees will take in 24 hours, fresh and warm each morning.
Pro tip: Fill feeders carefully and wipe up drips. Mississippi State warns that syrup spilled on or around the hive attracts robber bees from other colonies.
Step 4: Shrink the entrance and keep mice out
UF/IFAS recommends entrance reducers or wire mouse guards as simple defenses. Cornell says mice crawl into lower entrances once the bees cluster and stop guarding the door. To make your own guard, cut hardware cloth to the entrance width and at least three times its height, fold it in half, and push it into the entrance. Blythewood lists wooden entrance reducers for 8- and 10-frame hives at $2.25 each or $11.25 for five.
Step 5: Prepare for wind and moisture
- Shelter from wind, keep airflow. UF/IFAS says hives should be out of the wind but still ventilated, and early-morning sun helps. Cornell says to avoid low spots where damp, cold air pools, and to face entrances away from the prevailing wind.
- Add an upper entrance. Cornell says condensation dripping from the cover onto the bees is deadly, and that a shim or notch under the inner cover lets moisture escape and gives bees an exit if snow blocks the bottom.
- Insulation: sources differ. Cornell suggests a moisture-absorbent layer over the inner cover if your cover isn’t insulated; the Guelph team advises against insulation that soaks up moisture, because it can turn soggy and moldy. Ask what works locally.
- Wrap and strap where it’s cold. UF/IFAS says beekeepers in the far northern states and Canada may wrap hives. Cornell suggests strapping hives down against wind and raccoons.
Do this work while daytime temperatures are still above 50°F; Cornell says opening colonies in the cold is stressful at best and lethal at worst.
Step 6: Then leave them alone
UF/IFAS says to disturb hives as little as possible once winter begins, with brief checks only on days above 50°F if absolutely necessary. Heft the hive now and then. Because bees can’t take cold syrup, Penn State says beekeepers use fondant or hard sugar on top of the frames. Cornell says bees crowding the inner cover hole on a mild day are running out of food and need it right away.
Running late?
If it’s mid-October or later where you are:
- Check stores on the next day above 50°F (Cornell).
- If they’re light and still taking syrup, feed warm 2:1 in 24-hour amounts (Betterbee).
- If they’ve clustered, switch to fondant or sugar above the frames (Penn State; Cornell).
- Ask your extension office about late-season mite options.
- Fit a reducer or mouse guard now.
Safety notes
- Hot syrup burns. Let the water cool slightly before mixing, as Betterbee suggests.
- Robbing makes bees defensive (Arizona Extension), so wear full gear.
- Mite treatments: follow the label, including its protective-equipment requirements.
- Heavy boxes: Mississippi State says a full deep box weighs more than 70 pounds. Tip the hive to heft it instead of lifting the whole thing.
- Stings: If you might be allergic, see a doctor before you keep bees. Trouble breathing or throat swelling after a sting needs emergency help (UC California Master Beekeeper Program).
FAQ
Can I feed honey?
Only your own, from healthy colonies, and carefully. UF/IFAS warns that disease can spread through honey or frames from other colonies, so don’t feed honey of unknown origin.
Do I need to treat if my mite count was low?
HBHC says colonies below threshold may not need immediate control, and recommends re-sampling monthly. Cornell is more cautious: “If you have bees, you have mites,” so plan for control even if you can’t count every hive. Talk to your mentor.
What if my colony dies anyway?
UF/IFAS says some colonies don’t survive even with good preparation. Close up the hive to keep out robbers and pests, ask a mentor to help work out why, and plan a spring restart with our winter timeline for ordering bees and first-year budget.
Keep learning this winter
Reader deal: The Beekeeping Made Simple Beekeeping for Beginners course lists chapters on pest management and overwintering, and says it covers both warm and cold climates. First Hive Gear readers can use code COREY for 20% off eligible offers; check at checkout which plans it applies to.
See how it compares with free options in our courses and books roundup, and refresh your inspection skills with how to do your first hive inspection.
Sources
- Cornell CALS Pollinator Network, “Overwintering”: https://cals.cornell.edu/pollinator-network/beekeeping/overwintering
- UF/IFAS, “Overwintering Honey Bee Colonies in Northern Climates” (ENY-161): https://ask.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/IN1006
- Penn State Extension, “Honey Bee Management Throughout the Seasons”: https://extension.psu.edu/honey-bee-management-throughout-the-seasons
- Honey Bee Health Coalition, Tools for Varroa Management, 9th edition (2026): https://honeybeehealthcoalition.org/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/Tools-for-Varroa-Management-Guide-9th-Edition.pdf
- Mississippi State University Extension, “Beginning Beekeeping in Mississippi” (Publication 3594): https://extension.msstate.edu/publications/beginning-beekeeping-mississippi
- University of Arizona Cooperative Extension, “Working the Hive” (AZ2013, Dec 2022): https://extension.arizona.edu/sites/extension.arizona.edu/files/pubs/az2013-2022.pdf
- Betterbee, “The When, What, and How of Fall Feeding”: https://www.betterbee.com/instructions-and-resources/the-when-what-and-how-of-fall-feeding.asp
- University of California, California Master Beekeeper Program, “Honey Bee Stings”: https://cambp.ucdavis.edu/knowledge-base/safety/bee-stings
- University of Guelph Honey Bee Research Centre, “Feeding Bees and Overwintering” (YouTube): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8bDzD-aXj4
- Blythewood Bee Company product pages (read Oct 5, 2026): https://blythewoodbeecompany.com/products/ceracell-varroa-mite-test-bottle, https://blythewoodbeecompany.com/products/ceracell-10-frame-top-feeder-with-wooden-rim, https://blythewoodbeecompany.com/products/ceracell-8-frame-top-feeder-with-wooden-rim, https://blythewoodbeecompany.com/products/bee-smart-3-season-ultimate-hive-top-feeder, https://blythewoodbeecompany.com/products/5-pack-entrance-reducers-for-langstroth-hives
This article is general information, not professional, medical, or legal advice. Mite treatments are pesticides: always read and follow the label.